
Water's
Roving Ways
©
by Marc J. Defaut,
®
World and I Magazine 2003
As the precious fluid filling Earth's deepest basins
responds with air to solar heating, gravity's pull,
and Earth's movement, it flows in great circular currents,
waters the continents, and strongly influences climate.
Bottles
carrying messages as they drift across the ocean capture
the imagination and provide clues to water's roving
ways. Benjamin Franklin used such bottles to improve
transatlantic communication. As postmaster general for
the prerevolutionary colonies, he noticed that postal
ships piloted by American former whaler captains were
faster than British ships. The differences, he realized,
arose because the Americans knew the prevailing currents
much better. In a remarkable experiment, Franklin dropped
bottles with messages into the Gulf Stream, asking the
finders to return them with information on where they
had been retrieved. Using data gleaned from both the
messages and the whalers, he compiled charts that upgraded
mail delivery at the time and still to this day accurately
reflect the North Atlantic's circulating motion.
Like
no other substance on Earth, water circulates. Driven
by gravity, sunlight's heating, night's cooling, air
currents, and concentrations of dissolved materials,
water moves. As raindrops falling in the high mountains,
it begins a great journey to the mother ocean. But water
is too adaptable, too versatile and interactive, to
follow a simple path. The droplet may never reach a
stream: it may first evaporate, moisten a parched lichen,
or soak into the ground to be absorbed by the root of
a tree. It may soak into sandstone and percolate deep
underground, assembling with other droplets into a great
pool collected among interstices of buried rocky layers.
Yet
multitudes of freshwater droplets do join into tiny
streams that converge with others. The mighty rivers
they form rush to the sea carrying loads of weathered
sediments. Beneath these rivers and the land, unseen
by human eye, water flows slowly toward the sea through
porous rock, oozing eventually into the ocean through
underwater springs.
The
restless seas
Where
water has puddled into the deepest basins on the planet,
forming the oceans, gravity is no longer the major driver
of its movements. In them, moving air, solar heating,
cooling and loss of fresh water through evaporation,
and loss of fresh water through freezing all join gravity
in determining water's movements. Despite intrusions
of the continental masses, the oceans are all linked
into one body, ever seeking to balance imbalanced energy
gains and losses to its widespread parts through a complex
circulation system.
Much
of the balancing occurs in the upper layers within specific
ocean basins, such as the North Atlantic basin, in which
winds at different latitudes are blowing in opposite
directions. The water responds by moving in a roughly
circular movement north of the equator, with a major
spur also running northeast between Iceland and Europe
before it circles back along Greenland's eastern coast.
Superimposed and integrated with the horizontal surface
currents are vertical currents, whose downflowing and
upwelling segments may be separated by thousands of
miles and connected by cold currents flowing along the
ocean bottom. The vertical currents can be driven by
differences of density--water in a current can become
more dense with salt as the fresh water evaporates or
freezes--or simply by water being blown away from one
coast and replaced from below by emerging bottom currents.
Ultimately,
water's incessant motion can be traced to energy imbalances
produced by solar heating and affecting both water and
air as a linked system. To understand the dynamic relations
of atmospheric winds and ocean currents, we'll look
first at air movements.
Earth,
wind, and heat
Wind
is simply air moving to redress an imbalance in the
air pressure of two different areas. As sunlight hits
Earth's surface each day, the land heats faster than
the ocean water. The warmed air above the land becomes
less dense and rises, creating a partial vacuum (low
pressure area) that pulls cooler air (generally resting
over the ocean) in toward it. Thus, warm air rising
generates the cool breezes typically experienced along
the beaches of the world.
On
a grander scale, the same process creates large-scale
atmospheric currents--wind that travels in more or less
constant directions over huge areas. These atmospheric
currents, one of the main drivers of ocean currents,
are a natural consequence of sunlight striking Earth's
curved surface and thereby heating Earth unevenly. Near
the equator, where sunlight strikes Earth's surface
closest to vertical and with the shortest traverse through
the atmosphere, solar heating is significantly greater
than it is in the higher latitudes. That same solar
influx strikes the surface with less potency at the
higher latitudes, because it hits the surface at an
oblique angle and is spread over a greater area. Furthermore,
because light strikes the higher latitudes at an oblique
angle, it is more likely to be reflected back into space,
either off clouds or from Earth's surface. The light
is also less strong since it has traveled a longer distance
through the atmosphere. This tends to disperse the light,
as everyone has noticed in comparing the strength of
the sun at noon and at sunset.
If
no transport mechanism existed to move energy from equatorial
regions toward higher latitudes, most high latitudes
would be frozen wastelands. There would be no Moscow,
London, Paris, Toronto, or any other high-latitude city.
Conditions in those locations would be as harsh as those
at the North Pole today. Fortunately, atmospheric and
ocean currents carry heat energy from the equator to
these regions.
As
the equatorial regions heat up and ocean waters evaporate,
the hot-moist air rises, drawing cooler air from higher
latitudes into the tropical regions, which in turn produces
low-pressure cells north and south of the equator. The
rising tropical air cools through expansion, dumping
prodigious amounts of water and nourishing the tropical
rain forests. The now dry and cooler tropical air descends
around the north and south 30? latitudes. It can move
along the surface toward either higher latitudes, as
the westerlies, or the equator, as the trade winds.
The descending air forms high-pressure regions along
these latitudes.
The
warm westerly winds moving toward higher latitudes rise
over the colder, dense air masses moving away from the
poles (the polar easterlies). From the time of the earliest
circumnavigators, sailors learned to use these directional
currents to power their ships across the seas.
In
the Northern Hemisphere, northbound currents of both
air and water inevitably curve toward the right. This
is due mainly to the Coriolis force, which arises because
points at different latitudes move at different speeds
as the Earth rotates.
Ocean
currents are driven primarily by friction or drag as
the atmospheric currents move over the seas, affecting
water to a depth of about 300 feet. Some of the wind-driven
surface water movements become drivers of bottom currents
spanning thousands of miles. They are linked to surface
currents in certain zones where vertical water flows
are driven by gravity. In a zone east of Greenland,
for example, a branch of the Gulf Stream, now cooled
and salt-heavy due to loss of fresh water through evaporation
and freezing, displaces less-dense waters below it and
sinks to the ocean depths. In the eastern Pacific, off
the coast of South America, prevailing winds produce
a surface water deficit that is replenished by water
welling up from the bottom.
Clearly,
the oceans' complex circulation patterns begin with
wind-driven surface currents. The Atlantic Ocean demonstrates
the pattern with two great circular currents, one in
the central north and the other in the central south.
In the north Atlantic, for example, the trade winds
drive the North Equatorial current roughly from West
Africa to the West Indies before the water flow curves
north to become the Gulf Stream, running north and east
across the Atlantic. The current splits in mid-ocean,
with the North Atlantic current, driven by the westerlies,
continuing northeast between Iceland and northern Europe.
The other branch circulates toward the south as the
Canary current, which completes the circuit by joining
up with the North Equatorial current.
Currents
in the North Atlantic, then, are completing a circular
flow pattern in a clockwise direction, thanks to both
the Coriolis effect (air and water currents move along
curved paths) and the prevailing winds at different
latitudes (trade winds nearer the equator blowing toward
the west and westerlies further north blowing toward
the east). In the Northern Hemisphere, the large circular
cell, or gyre, defined by the ocean currents rotates
clockwise; its counterpart in the Southern Hemisphere
rotates counterclockwise. Water tends to converge toward
the center of the gyres, creating "hills"
on the ocean's surface.
Major
surface currents in the Atlantic have been well known
for decades, and these currents have been incorporated
into explanations of climate patterns of North America
and western Europe. In an apparently clear example,
standard wisdom for decades has been that British winters
are moderated by tropical heat transported northward
by the Gulf Stream. Recent studies published in the
September 27, 2002, issue of Science challenge this
view. Researchers who analyzed meteorological observations
made over the past 50 years have concluded that roughly
80 percent of the heat carried to Ireland and Britain
by transatlantic winds was derived not from heat carried
by the Gulf Stream but rather from summer heat stored
briefly in the ocean. The winds blow into Europe across
the ocean from the southwest carrying heat retained
by the ocean waters into the winter months, when the
land has cooled much more rapidly.
The
finding does not challenge any of the basic facts about
the Gulf Stream, only its role in climate. In the bigger
picture, however, nothing is changed: water and wind
are still collaborators in heat transport that moderates
temperature extremes toward the planet's poles.
Climate
Climate
is complex and still poorly understood. Nonetheless
it is clear that atmospheric and oceanic currents must
be included among the many factors affecting climate.
Even more fundamental to climate than currents are some
of the planet's more fixed geophysical factors, especially
seasonal changes caused by the tilt of Earth's axis
and such effects of the continents as constraining circulation
patterns and heating the air. As noted earlier, continental
crust warms up faster than juxtaposed oceans because
the crust's heat capacity is lower than that of water.
Although water takes longer to heat up than crustal
rock does, it loses heat more slowly. In summer, the
crust will heat up faster than adjoining ocean water,
and in winter it will lose the heat more rapidly. As
a result, temperatures in the interior of the continents
are colder in the winter and warmer in the summer than
those in climates at equal latitudes along the coast.
During
the summer months, as the continents and overlying air
heat up, the hot air rises, creating low-pressure cells.
The opposite occurs in the winter, when cold and dense--and
thus heavy--air forms high-pressure belts over the continents.
The low-pressure cells centered over Asia during the
summer pull the moist atmospheric currents from the
Pacific, which in turn leads to the downpours associated
with the monsoon season.
North
America's climate follows the basic continental pattern,
with low-pressure cells predominating in the summer
and high-pressure cells predominating in the winter.
Played out between reservoirs of tropical air and polar
air, these changing continental cells often force air
masses from the high and low latitudes into contact
with themselves, producing tempests along the fronts
(that is, the contact zones between cells). In the summer,
for example, the continental low-pressure cells draw
tropical high-pressure cells with their high moisture
load onto the continent. Active storm fronts form where
the low- and high-pressure cells meet, and the moisture
is dropped.
The
tropical and polar air masses that invade North America
tend to travel in an easterly direction because they
interact with the eastward-moving jet stream five to
eight miles above the surface. The jet stream is a fairly
consistent wind that zigzags across North America, Europe,
and Russia in its path around the world. As it sways
across the continents, the jet stream directs warm air
toward the higher latitudes during the summer (the summer
low-pressure cell over the continents) and cold air
toward the south in the winter (the winter high-pressure
system).
El
Nino
Across
the vast, tropical Pacific Ocean, wind and water are
intimately linked and implicated in a pas de deux with
global consequences literally for feast or famine.
When
the easterly trade winds blow strong from South America
to Indonesia, as they usually do, warmer surface waters
pile up on the western shores of the basin. The surface
water deficit along the basin's eastern shores is replenished
by the upwelling of colder bottom waters, especially
along the coasts of Peru. If the easterly trade winds
slacken or reverse direction, as they do every four
to seven years, water again responds and world climate
enters the time of an El Ni?o. During El Ni?o, water
levels in the Pacific basin even out, warmer surface
waters move toward South America, upwelling along the
continent's western margins ceases, and rainfall patterns
shift around the world.
Some
details flesh out the contrast between the two main
dance steps--either strong or slack easterly trade winds--performed
by wind and water in the tropical Pacific basin. When
the easterly trade winds are strong, water levels can
be a half yard higher off the coast of Indonesia than
off Peru, and downwelling occurs along the coasts of
Australia and Indonesia. The warm waters in the western
Pacific generate rising moist air that contributes to
normal seasonal rainfall along eastern Australia and
Indonesia. In contrast, the surface currents flowing
away from Ecuador and Peru cannot be compensated for
by an equal amount of surface water flowing into the
area, so water comes from below, creating the upwelling
effect.
The
upwelling currents carry an abundance of plankton and
other nutrients that have died and sunk to the ocean
floor. Along the coasts of Ecuador and Peru, the cold
upwelling waters feed a host of fish species, including
the anchovy, which is the staple of Peru's fishing industry.
The waters are some of the richest in the world. Once
a year around December, the trade winds diminish and
the surface waters remain in place, preventing the rise
of the upwelling currents. Typically, the conditions
last for only a few months. The warm waters near the
South American coast generate rains that cause flooding
as they move inland throughout northwestern South America.
Meanwhile, the waters off the coasts of Australia and
Indonesia remain cold, creating droughts in the region.
At
times, the conditions last for extended periods, sometimes
for years, affecting climatic conditions on not only
the margins of the central Pacific Peru but also the
entire Earth in what can only be considered a domino
effect. The fishermen of these waters christened the
weather upheaval El Ni?o (in Spanish, the "little
one") because it occurs near or during the Christmas
season. Recent records indicate that large El Ni?os
occurred in 1982--'83, 1986--'87, 1991--'92, and 1997--'98.
The
El Nino of 1982--'83 serves as an excellent example
of the devastating weather that can result from a series
of chain reactions felt around the globe. Australia
endured the worst drought of the century, which generated
continual dust storms. One that hit Melbourne extended
thousands of feet into the sky and stretched across
300 miles, dumping a half-million tons of rich topsoil
over the city. The drought also caused innumerable fires
as the bush withered. Farmers were faced with kangaroo
stampedes as the animals desperately tried to quench
their thirst and hunger, reducing already depleted water
supplies and crops.
During
this period the typically dry coasts of Ecuador and
Peru were drenched with water, culminating in flash
flooding, which tore away soil loosely anchored by sparse
vegetation. Near Chunchi, Ecuador, mudflows killed over
100 people. Tahiti, a fair-weather island, was ravaged
by six cyclones in five months. As the domino effect
moved to the northern latitudes, drought struck parts
of Africa, causing widespread famine. Local flooding
occurred along the Mississippi River as rains soaked
the Gulf states. Only the continents of Europe and Antarctica
went untouched by the changing weather conditions.
The
good news is that scientists can now predict the coming
of extended El Ni?os by monitoring ocean-water temperatures.
The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
has deployed a series of buoys extending across the
Pacific that transmit water temperatures to scientists
around the world.
Watering
the continents
The
sun shines. The winds blow. The currents flow. Air circulates.
Water circulates.
Land
is different. In comparison to air and water, its tectonic
cycles count as no movement. Land impedes water's movements.
It impounds water in lakes or underground reservoirs
and even slows rivers rushing to the oceans.
Land
adds a new dimension to global water cycles: fresh water.
Without land, the purified water in the clouds would
fall back into the salty sea. Land also adds complexity
and richness to the water cycle, supporting the plants
and animals that regularly circulate water through their
systems and incorporate it as their primary constituent.
For
the needs of plants and animals, ocean currents, prevailing
winds, evaporation, high-pressure and low-pressure cells,
and the jet stream are unreliable suppliers of fresh
water. Although they deliver fresh water with regularity
in some places, they more commonly deliver it in bursts
and dearths. Land compensates for water's irregularity,
evening out both the floods and the droughts and also
the more regular annual cycles, in which days or weeks
of abundant water supply alternate with days or weeks
of scarce supply.
Adapting
to water's fleet cycles by taking advantage of the land's
impoundments and impediments is a great challenge for
life that demands a regular freshwater supply. Although
plants and animals have already adapted themselves to
meet that challenge, humans have yet to meet it in a
way that goes beyond brute-force expropriation of irreplaceable
ancient reservoirs and fouling running waters or completely
depleting them.
As
twenty-first century society faces the challenge of
enhancing or maintaining its fresh-water supplies, it
can take a lesson from Benjamin Franklin. By mapping
the prevailing ocean currents and directing his postal
ships to follow or avoid them, he worked within the
constraints of the prevailing currents.
Science
today provides a wealth of detail about global water
cycles, prevailing currents that extend across oceans
and continents and across timescales ranging from years
to millions of years. These cycles collectively define
prevailing currents constraining global society. Like
Franklin, we need to learn to work within them.

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